Longtime food critic Tom Sietsema wrapped up his 25-year run at the Washington Post last week with the release of his final fall dining guide.
Sietsema’s survey of the “40 Best Restaurants in and Around D.C.” is dominated by the District, which is home to all of the top-five ranked entries. But five Fairfax eateries still made the cut, along with one that will soon set up shop in the area.
Artie’s
Acknowledging that the Fairfax City mainstay is part of a corporation, albeit a locally owned one, Sietsema praises Artie’s for the reliability of both its “all-American” menu and its service.
“Decades after I first sank my teeth into them, I’m still enjoying crab cakes shaped mostly with jumbo lump crab, as well as rosy rib eye, marinated in beer and flanked by an overloaded baked potato,” he wrote in the guide. “Salads speak to their season, and decadence comes by way of tender calamari tossed with sweet onion strings — the Reese’s of appetizers — piled atop a fine lobster ginger sauce.”
Operating 3260 Blenheim Blvd since 1978, Artie’s is the longest-running brand owned by Great American Restaurants, the Merrifield-based company also responsible for Best Buns Bakery and Burgers, Sweetwater Tavern, Coastal Flats, Mike’s American and more.
It was preceded by Fantastic Fritzbe’s Flying Food Factory, which opened in Annandale in 1976, but that was remade into the Tex-Mex-centered Silverado in 1996.
According to Sietsema, Artie’s dedication to hiring “nice people” and training them correctly — the secrets to its recruiting success, per managing partner Ryan McCarthy — is evident “from entrance to exit.”
Elyse
In contrast to the steadfast comfort of Artie’s, this much newer Fairfax City establishment stands out for making every visit a unique “night to remember,” according to Sietsema.
Opened in 2024 with a months-long, invitation-only preview before making its public debut in early October, Elyse is the latest concoction of chef Jon Krinn, who previously oversaw the kitchen at Clarity in Vienna. With only 30 seats and a seasonal tasting menu shaped by its chef’s travels, the restaurant at 10822 Fairfax Blvd prioritizes intimacy and variety.
“Everything about dinner — a five-course meal that gives diners some options — makes you feel lucky to spend a few hours in what looks like a contemporary speakeasy,” Sietsema wrote, noting that the wine and cocktail pairings also change daily.
Highlights of the critic’s most recent visit in September included mushroom consommé, a tower of squash, spiced cured duck, and a “fabulous” dessert that combined lemon curd, meringue, figs and shortcake.
Mama Chang
Chef Peter Chang’s eponymous restaurant continues to expand its Northern Virginia presence, setting its sights next on the South Alex development in Penn Daw. The one and only Mama Chang, however, keeps drawing the acclaim.
Specializing in home-style Chinese cooking inspired by the women in Chang’s family, the Fairfax City restaurant (3251 Blenheim Blvd, Suite 101) was ranked among the 100 best restaurants in the D.C. region by Washingtonian earlier this year and as the 10th best Northern Virginia restaurant by Northern Virginia Magazine last year.
Mama Chang was also singled out by the New York Times as one of just three Virginia entries in a 2024 round-up of the 25 best restaurants in D.C. “right now.”
In his fall dining guide, Sietsema says Mama Chang is “dearest to my heart” of the 19 restaurant that Peter Chang has opened across the D.C. region.
“The service is brisk and efficient, the 200 seats include round tables with room for as many as 13 diners, and the wine list is as considered as anything from the kitchen, animated by a dozen cooks,” the retiring critic said. “They work as one. Indeed, every meal tastes like a mom is cooking just for you.”
Our Mom Eugenia
The 40 Best Restaurants list technically features the Shirlington location, since it’s the one Sietsema visits most frequently. But Our Mom Eugenia can also be found in Great Falls (1025 Seneca Road #H), where it originally launched in 2016, and at the Mosaic District (2985 District Avenue, Suite 185) in Merrifield, where it recently completed an expansion.
The Greek food conjured up by executive chef Eugenia Hobson, who co-owns the restaurant with son Phil Hobson, “oozes comfort,” according to Sietsema.
“My steadies on the menu encompass herbed lentil soup, airy pink whipped fish roe, the Greek salad built for two, and a juicy half-chicken paired with roast potatoes and soft green beans cooked with tomato and onions,” he wrote.
Sorn Thai
Praised by Sietsema as “arguably Northern Virginia’s best Thai restaurant,” Sorn Thai opened in March at 6224E Old Dominion Drive in McLean’s Chesterbrook Shopping Center.
Owner Supisa “Boom” Teawboot, who also operates the more casual Donsak Thai Restaurant in D.C., developed the new concept as a tribute to her late grandmother, whose southern Thai recipes take center stage on a menu that also includes staples like pad Thai and tom yum soup.
In addition to lauding chef Prapassorn Teawboot, the owner’s sister, for making even seemingly routine dishes taste “special,” Sietsema dubs Sorn Thai the “most alluring” Thai restaurant in the region for its design, which includes a bar and an open kitchen, as well as its service.
“The choice cocktails have you sipping pretty, and everyone from the greeter to the bartender makes you feel like an honored guest,” he wrote. “Can hospitality make food taste better? Sorn Thai makes a case in the affirmative.”
Ruthie’s All-Day
A favorite in Arlington for its Southern-style comfort food, Ruthie’s All-Day is slated to expand next spring with a second location in Fairfax Corner at 11951 Grand Commons Avenue.
As a preview of what Fairfax County residents can look forward to, Sietsema says in his guide that Ruthie’s “homey” charms extend to the decor and amenities like a “cheerful” bar and dog-friendly patio, along with the “heaping helpings of food with mass appeal.”
“I’m talking crisp-fluffy hush puppies veined with shrimp and charred jalapeño — the puppies bite back! — and meaty chicken wings you can cool down in a dip of ranch dressing,” he said. “Also, a few things for light appetites, foremost limey tuna tartare and bountiful salads.”
The restaurant is named after owner and chef Matt Hill’s grandmother, and the expansion to Fairfax Corner will add another personal connection, bringing it to his wife’s home town.
“We can’t wait to welcome even more people to share in the great food, friendly service, and relaxed vibe that make Ruthie’s so special,” Hill said when the new location was announced.
